With summer clearly upon us, it's time to revamp your make-up kit and techniques. As the mercury rises, the foundation goes cakey, the T-zone becomes greasier, eyeshadows huddle into creases and eyeliner runs - along with the sweat - down your face.
"A good rule for summer make-up is to stay clear of creamy, greasy products and opt for gel or waterproof cosmetics," says Sam Boutros, Make Up For Ever's regional beauty trainer and make-up artist. "And of course, avoid using heavy make-up during the humid months."But perfecting summer make-up is easier said than done, so we have compiled a simple rulebook for you to follow.
The complexion: The big issue in summer is to keep your face looking fresh and natural during the day. The first step is to exfoliate skin gently to get it squeaky clean and smooth. Follow with a mild, alcohol-free toner to freshen up the cleansed skin.
Boutros says, "Toning is important 365 days of the year, but more so during the summer months as the pores tend to open a little wider due to the heat."He recommends a three-times-a-day toning ritual for women with very oily skin. "Women who already use a toner in the morning and at night need to add an afternoon ritual of toning."Boutros recommends removing the old make-up with non-alcoholic cleansing wipes and dabbing on a light toner followed by a moisturiser. "Now reapply fresh make-up. Choose non-alcoholic toners because alcoholic ones can lead to greater sebum production in very oily skins."
Chilled rose water is a wonderful toner to refresh your face with. After toning, the next step is to use a light protective day moisturiser or a light-textured SPF lotion. Following this with a non-greasy primer or a mattifying refiner helps in preparing the face for make up.
The freshness of your make-up during summer is essentially determined by the kind of foundation coverage you choose. Use a super-light, mattifying mousse foundation. This helps to keep your complexion clean and clear and helps avoid the cakey look that comes from heavy-duty formulations. Remember that foundations tend to go a bit darker when they get greasy so it's OK to use a slightly lighter shade of mattifying foundation during the summer months.
If you're blessed with youthful skin and don't require much coverage, skip the foundation. Instead just use a concealer and corrector to cover the dark areas under the eyes and to conceal blemishes, if any.
The last step to is ‘set' the complexion. Lightly dust some loose powder with a powder brush over the T-zone after applying the foundation. This helps prevent the build-up of grease to a large extent.
"It's important to choose loose powder according to your skin type," says Dubai-based make-up artist Malini Ohri. "Women with oily skin, especially, need to use an anti-shine loose powder during summer. Also, whether you stay indoors or head outdoors, remember to gently blot away the excess oil along the T-zone with blotting tissues at regular intervals."
The eyes: The kind of eye make-up you choose plays an important role in determining whether you look fresh or tired during the hotter months. Boutros suggests you ditch the heavy eye make-up and opt for eyeliners in either waterproof gel versions or as pencils. We recommend using coloured eye pencils in pastel, powdery, fluorescent or aqua shades as they don't draw attention even when smudged. But Boutros says you can safely use black if you choose the right texture for the season. "Make sure the eyeliner is a waterproof, gel version because black eye make-up, if it gets smudged, can make you look tired and worn-out." Another option is to skip black eyeliner altogether and dress up your eyes with volumising waterproof mascara.
Avoid creamy eyeshadows during the hot months as they can settle into the creases of the eyes and give your face a wrinkly look. It is better to use powder eyeshadows in natural or cool aqua shades.
The cheeks
During summer, a long-lasting matte complexion is also dependent on how the cheeks flush. Or more accurately, what makes them flush. Besides the gel cheek tints that bring a flush of natural colour to everyone, there are various mineral powder blusher and bronzer options. The mineral versions have an advantage over the pressed powder options as they look more natural and allow for better blending.
The lips
If you insist on using a moderate amount of waterproof eye make-up, tone down your lip colour. Go for a natural, matte shade on the lips to balance the heavy eyes. Generally, for the lips, apply and blend a matte lip liner pencil all over the lips. This makes the lip colour last longer during summer. Lipstick options for the season vary depending on the effect you're looking for. Those wanting a sun-kissed, beach glow can use warmer colours such as bronze and rust in creamy textures. But if you're seeking the cool, ice-maiden effect, blend a matte nude-pink lip pencil on the lips and dab a frosted, silvery, non-glossy pink lipstick over. Similarly, if you're looking for a dramatic pout, apply a vibrant shade of your choice in a matte texture. Greasy gloss is not a great idea for the hotter months as it tends to melt quickly and settle into either the corners of the mouth or the area around it, making the face look greasy. Matte lips contribute greatly to help your make-up look fresh and stay shine-free for hours.